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It is not possible to speak of Granada without a feeling of beauty and mystery. Its setting, with the backdrop of the often snow-clad Sierra Nevada, is magnificent. Wander around the narrow cobbled streets amid the white-washed walls of the city, and visit the celebrated Alhambra. A city of universal historic importance thanks to its archaeological remains, it has a large university population and an animated social and cultural life.

History

Granada was ruled from Cordoba until 1031, and later from Seville by the Almoravids and then the Almohads. The Islamic city was called Karnattah, from which 'Granada' is derived (granada also happens to be the Spanish for pomegranate, which has been adopted as part of the city's coat of arms).

After the fall of Cordoba in 1236 and Seville in 1248, Muslims sought refuge in the city, where the founder of the famous Nasrid dynasty, Mahammed al-Ahmar, had recently established an independent emirate. Granada became one of the richest and most populous cities in 13th century Europe, flourishing on the talents of its swelled population of traders and artisans.

But by the end of the 15th century the Nasrid dynasty was in decline. Its economy had stagnated, the rulers had retreated into a pleasure loving existence inside the Alhambra, and violent rivalry had developed over the succession. The scene had been set for war by the unification of Castilla and Aragon throught the marriage of Isabel and Fernando. On the 1st of January 1492, Castilian troops entered the city and next day Isabel and Fernando entered the city ceremonially in Muslim dress. They set up court in the Alhambra for several years. Under them, Granada became a dynamic Castilian city but religious persecution was rife. In 1502, Muslims were given the ultimatum to convert or leave Spain. Most stayed and were baptised, to be known as Moriscos. But after another revolt in the 1560s, many were deported to other parts of Spain, and the city, having lost much of its talented populace, went into decline.
In the 19th century tourism arrived and the restoration of Granada's Islamic heritage began. In the early 20th century, the city frowned on liberalism, and in 1936 at the beginning of the Spanish civil war, many Granadinos with liberal or left connections were killed. The city today still has a reputation for conservatism.

Climate

In general you can rely on pleasant or hot temperatures just about everywhere from April to early November. The temperatures normally range from 15°C to 35°C. In Andalucia there are plenty of warm, sunny days right through winter. However, in July and August, temperature inland can get unpleasant, even unbearable, unless you are high enough in the mountains. Andalucia is very hot in high summer, with temperatures rising to 35°C.

The Mediterranean provides Spain's warmest waters. They reach 27°C or so in August, and you can swim as early as April or even late March in the southeast.

City Sights

La Alhambra & El Generalife
On top of La Sabika, the hill that overlooks Granada, this monument is quite magnificent. The Casa Real (Royal Palace) is marvellously decorated and the Generalife (the Alhambra's Gardens) are wonderful. The Palace began life as a fortress in the 9th century. The Nasrids of the 13th and 14th centuries turned it into a fortress-palace complex adjoined by a small city (medina) of which nothing remains). The best time to visit is early morning or late in the afternoon, away from the crowds
It is open April to September from Monday to Saturday 9am to 8pm, and on Sunday from 9am to 6pm. From October to March it is open 9am to 6pm daily.

Catedral
This Gothic/Renaissance cathedral with a truly cavernous interior was begun in 1521 but work was not completed until the 18th century. The cathedral is open Monday to Saturday from 10.30am to 1pm and 3.30 to 6.30pm.

Albaicin
The hilly streets and narrow old alleys of the Albaicin, Granada's old Muslim quarter, are an absolute must see. The area covers much of the hill that faces the Alhambra. Its name comes from 1227 when Muslims from Baeza populated the district after their city was conquered by the Christians. It became a densely populated residential area of Islamic Granada and after the Reconquista it survived as the Muslim quarter.

Day Trips

The Sierra Nevada mountain range
This forms an almost year-round snowy backdrop to Granada and includes mainland Spain's highest peak, Mulhacen. It is about 1½ to 2 hours from Granada.

Las Alpujarras
This 70 km long jumble of valleys is great walking country and is located to the south of Granada. For centuries it was one of Spain's most isolated corners, but recently tourism has arrived. But the area still remains remote, mysterious and quite beautiful. The steep white villages are surrounded by orchards and woodlands of chestnut, oak, poplar and pine.

Trevelez
This picturesque village set in a valley, claims to be the highest village in Spain and is also famous for producing some of the country's best jamon serrano. The hams are driven in from all around Spain for curing in Trevelez's cold, dry mountain air.

Nights out

To discover listings for the upcoming months try and get a copy of Guia del Ocio, available from Kiosks. There are a number of good restaurants around the Alhambra and Albaicin areas.The Campo del Principe area, south of Alhambra is very lively at night. If you want to dance into the early hours then the Bar El Eshavira has some good jazz, blues and Flamenco music, and is situated down a dark alley at Placeta de la Cuna. Otherwise the El Corral del Principe has some great Flamenco on a Friday and Saturday nights.

Activities

A distinctive local craft is marquetry (taracea) which is used on boxes, tables, chess sets and more. The best has shell, silver or mother-of-pearl inlays. Other granadino crafts include embossed leather, guitars, wrought iron, brass and copperware, basket-weaving, textiles and, of course, pottery. Places to look include the Alhambra, and in two shops on Cuesta de Gomérez. There's also a guitar-maker on Cuesta de Gomérez. The government-run Artespaña in the Corral del Carbon has a good range of granadino handicrafts. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 1.30pm and 4.30 to 8pm, Saturday from 10am to 1.30pm.

There are a number of good bookshops on Libreria Urbano at Calle Tablas 6, south-west off Plaza de la Trinidad, and Libreria Atlantida at Gran Via de Colon, 9, both have a good range of books in English.

Special Events

Where Can I Find The……?

Tourist Office
The municipal tourist office is at Plaza de Mariana Pineda, east of Puerto Real. The helpful English-speaking staff has plenty of information to give away about Granada and Granada province. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 10.30am to 1.30pm and 4.30pm to 6.30pm, Saturday from 10am to 1pm. The Junta de Andalucía has a more central tourist office in the Corral del Carbón on Calle Mariana Pineda. Bus and train information is posted outside. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 9am to 7pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.

Post and Communications
The main post office (postcode 18080) is at Puerto Real s/n. There are numerous public phones around the centre.

Foreign Consulates
British Consulate
Carmen de San Cristobal, Ctra de Murcia s/n, 18010 Granada
Telephone: (958) 274724
(958) 221460 - weekday mornings

Banks
There are several banks with ATMs on Gran Vía de Colón and Calle Reyes Católicos.

Medical and Emergency Services
The Policia Local (tel: 20 94 61) is at Plaza del Carmen 5, just north of Puerta Real. The Policia Nacional station (tel: 27 83 00) is at Calle de la Duquesa 15, northwest off Plaza de la Trinidad.
For urgent medical help, the Cruz Roja (tel: 22 22 22) is at Calle Escoriaza 8, near Paseo de la Bomba and the Rio Genil.
The hospital de San Juan de Dios (tel: 20 43 00) is in a fairly central position at Calle San Juan de Dios 15.

Airport Transfers
The small airport in Granada is 17kms west of the centre of the city. There are normally 4 airport buses daily although on a Sunday this can be less.