This Basque city lies on the beautiful bay of La Concha. Surrounded
by the rolling hills of Guipuzcoa province of which it is the capital,
San Sebastian is just across the border from France. The old town,
Parte Vieja, is a hive of activity in the evening with a dense concentration
of lively bars. Deep in Basque culture the area offers a glimpse
at Spain's second langauge and culture, that rivals the Castillian
culture of the south and east coasts.
History
THE BASQUE COUNTRY: The provinces of Guipúzcoa, Vizcaya
and Alava form the Basque provinces, occupying a coastal position
in the eastern part of the Cantabrian Mountains. The economy of
this fertile region is strongly based on agricultural produce, although
recently the area has also become one of Spain's foremost industrial
areas. The Basques themselves are a very ancient pre-Indo-European
race and the origins of their language have baffled etymologists
for centuries. The area managed to maintain a considerable degree
of independence until the 19th century. The main city of the region
is Bilbao, founded in the early 14th century. The Old Town has a
Gothic cathedral and an attractive town hall. Bilbao's amazing new
Guggenheim Museum has been hailed as a masterpiece of 20th century
architecture and houses many great works of modern art. The Palacio
Euskalduna is Bilbao's new congress and music centre. The provincial
capital of San Sebastián, situated very close to the French
frontier, is one of the most fashionable and popular Spanish seaside
resorts.
Climate
In the north, and on the Balearic Islands, summer temperatures
of around 30°C are standard. In winter, the climate in the north
is very similar to that in the south of the UK, a lot of rain can
fall and it is often overcast. Generally the best time to vist the
north of Spain is during the summer.
Day Trips
Santiago de Compostela
If you have a day, or preferably a little longer, you may want
to consider visiting the ancient and historic town of Santiago de
Compostela. During the Middle Ages, the tomb of St James at Santiago
de Compostela was regarded as one of the most holy sites in Christendom
and thousands of pilgrims travelled through Spain each year to visit
the shrine. This route, the Way of St James, was lined with monasteries,
religious houses, chapels and hospices to cater for the pilgrims.
Many of these buildings still survive, and any traveller following
the route today will find it an uplifting introduction to the religious
architecture of medieval Spain. The route began in Navarre, at Canfranc
or Valcarlos; from there, travelling west, the main stopping places
were Pamplona, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Logroño, Burgos,
León, Astorga and Santiago de Compostela. The Saint's feast
day, July 25 is celebrated in vigorous style in Santiago de Compostela
and accommodation should be booked well in advance. There are several
specialist books on the subject of this and other old pilgrim routes
which may be followed, both in Spain and elsewhere in Europe.
Atlantic Coastline
If you fancy exploring further a field to find beaches as spectacular
as San Sebastian's then you will be spoilt for choice. The region's
coastline - stretching from the French frontier along the Cantabrian
coast to Cap Finisterre and then southwards to the border with Portugal
- has many fine beaches which are as yet largely undiscovered. This
is at least partly due to the climate being slightly harsher than
in the south of the country. The beaches are mostly of fine sand,
often surrounded by cliffs and crags. Much of the hinterland is
lush, earning the coast of Asturias the title of 'Costa Verde'.
In Galicia the rivers have fjord-like estuaries called rías.
Nights out
The heart of San Sebastian is in the Parte Vieja. Surrounded by
a labyrinth of narrow lanes the area lies below the Monte Urgull
on the eastern spur of the Bahia de la Concha. Here you can find
a vast array of bars and restaurants, some of which offer excellent
local sea food cooked in the traditional Basque way.
Special Events
Festivals
In true Spanish style, cultural events are almost inevitably celebrated
with a wild party and a holiday. Among the festivals to look out
for are Festividad in San Sebastián in January, when the
whole town dresses up and goes berserk. Also Carnaval takes place
throughout the country in late February, with celebrations and street
party's in towns all over Spain, with San Sebastian being no exception.
The Quincena Musical Donostia (a fortnight of music at San Sebastian,
Donostia is its Basque name) was founded in 1961, and retains that
name despite having been progressively prolonged and enlarged over
the years. Last year the festival was launched with a bang on 9
August with a whole day of 10 events around the city, and it continued
through to 3 September, based at the new Kursaal which opened last
year, with a procession of prestigious international soloists and
orchestras, ballet, and several series of early and contemporary
music, settling down to three choices each evening; something for
any taste. Finally probably the top draw card is the International
Jazz festival in July and the 2 week Festival de Cine, which is
held annually in the 2nd half of September.
Activities
Surfing
Although it may not be everyones cup of tea San Sebastian and the
surrounding coastline has some excellent breaks. The waves are very
consistant here and there are enough spots to suit everyone from
beginners to advanced. San Sebastian itself has a few good breaks
but probably the most famous break is along the coast to the west,
in Mundaca. Due to the strong south westerly prevailing winds the
north coast is also an excellent place for windsurfing. It's adviseable
to get a nice warm wetsuit as the Atlantic sea can be a little chilly!
If you are in San Sebastian in July then you may get to watch some
of the world Championships, dependent on the weather.
Diving
The Scuba Du dive shop is on Paseo del Muelle 23. You can hire
equipment there or do open water courses.
Where can I find the….
Tourist information
The Oficina Municipal de Informacion (tel: 48 11 66) is on Calle
de la Reina Regente and has a wealth of information on the city
and the province of Guipuzcoa. In the summer (June to September
it is open from Monday to Saturday, 8am until 8pm, otherwise its
hours are Monday to Friday, 9am until 2pm and 3.30pm to 7pm.
Medical and Emergency Services
There are several hospitals in San Sebastian, including the Hostpital
de Gipuzkoa (tel:45 40 00), on Alto de Zorroaga s/n. In a medical
emergency you can call the Cruz Roja on 22 22 22. Th elocal police
are on 091.
Banks
There are a number of banks scattered all over the city where you
can change cash or travellers' cheques.
Post and Communications
The main post office can be found at Calle de Undaneta, behind
the cathedral, whilst the telefonica phone centre is at Calle de
San Marcial 29, which is open Monday to Saturday, from 9.30am until
11pm. The code for the post restante is 20080. The telephone code
throughout San Sebastian is 943.
Airport Transfers
The city's airport is 22km out of town, near Hondarribia.