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This Basque city lies on the beautiful bay of La Concha. Surrounded by the rolling hills of Guipuzcoa province of which it is the capital, San Sebastian is just across the border from France. The old town, Parte Vieja, is a hive of activity in the evening with a dense concentration of lively bars. Deep in Basque culture the area offers a glimpse at Spain's second langauge and culture, that rivals the Castillian culture of the south and east coasts.

History

THE BASQUE COUNTRY: The provinces of Guipúzcoa, Vizcaya and Alava form the Basque provinces, occupying a coastal position in the eastern part of the Cantabrian Mountains. The economy of this fertile region is strongly based on agricultural produce, although recently the area has also become one of Spain's foremost industrial areas. The Basques themselves are a very ancient pre-Indo-European race and the origins of their language have baffled etymologists for centuries. The area managed to maintain a considerable degree of independence until the 19th century. The main city of the region is Bilbao, founded in the early 14th century. The Old Town has a Gothic cathedral and an attractive town hall. Bilbao's amazing new Guggenheim Museum has been hailed as a masterpiece of 20th century architecture and houses many great works of modern art. The Palacio Euskalduna is Bilbao's new congress and music centre. The provincial capital of San Sebastián, situated very close to the French frontier, is one of the most fashionable and popular Spanish seaside resorts.

Climate

In the north, and on the Balearic Islands, summer temperatures of around 30°C are standard. In winter, the climate in the north is very similar to that in the south of the UK, a lot of rain can fall and it is often overcast. Generally the best time to vist the north of Spain is during the summer.

Day Trips

Santiago de Compostela

If you have a day, or preferably a little longer, you may want to consider visiting the ancient and historic town of Santiago de Compostela. During the Middle Ages, the tomb of St James at Santiago de Compostela was regarded as one of the most holy sites in Christendom and thousands of pilgrims travelled through Spain each year to visit the shrine. This route, the Way of St James, was lined with monasteries, religious houses, chapels and hospices to cater for the pilgrims. Many of these buildings still survive, and any traveller following the route today will find it an uplifting introduction to the religious architecture of medieval Spain. The route began in Navarre, at Canfranc or Valcarlos; from there, travelling west, the main stopping places were Pamplona, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Logroño, Burgos, León, Astorga and Santiago de Compostela. The Saint's feast day, July 25 is celebrated in vigorous style in Santiago de Compostela and accommodation should be booked well in advance. There are several specialist books on the subject of this and other old pilgrim routes which may be followed, both in Spain and elsewhere in Europe.

Atlantic Coastline

If you fancy exploring further a field to find beaches as spectacular as San Sebastian's then you will be spoilt for choice. The region's coastline - stretching from the French frontier along the Cantabrian coast to Cap Finisterre and then southwards to the border with Portugal - has many fine beaches which are as yet largely undiscovered. This is at least partly due to the climate being slightly harsher than in the south of the country. The beaches are mostly of fine sand, often surrounded by cliffs and crags. Much of the hinterland is lush, earning the coast of Asturias the title of 'Costa Verde'. In Galicia the rivers have fjord-like estuaries called rías.

Nights out

The heart of San Sebastian is in the Parte Vieja. Surrounded by a labyrinth of narrow lanes the area lies below the Monte Urgull on the eastern spur of the Bahia de la Concha. Here you can find a vast array of bars and restaurants, some of which offer excellent local sea food cooked in the traditional Basque way.

Special Events

Festivals

In true Spanish style, cultural events are almost inevitably celebrated with a wild party and a holiday. Among the festivals to look out for are Festividad in San Sebastián in January, when the whole town dresses up and goes berserk. Also Carnaval takes place throughout the country in late February, with celebrations and street party's in towns all over Spain, with San Sebastian being no exception. The Quincena Musical Donostia (a fortnight of music at San Sebastian, Donostia is its Basque name) was founded in 1961, and retains that name despite having been progressively prolonged and enlarged over the years. Last year the festival was launched with a bang on 9 August with a whole day of 10 events around the city, and it continued through to 3 September, based at the new Kursaal which opened last year, with a procession of prestigious international soloists and orchestras, ballet, and several series of early and contemporary music, settling down to three choices each evening; something for any taste. Finally probably the top draw card is the International Jazz festival in July and the 2 week Festival de Cine, which is held annually in the 2nd half of September.

Activities

Surfing

Although it may not be everyones cup of tea San Sebastian and the surrounding coastline has some excellent breaks. The waves are very consistant here and there are enough spots to suit everyone from beginners to advanced. San Sebastian itself has a few good breaks but probably the most famous break is along the coast to the west, in Mundaca. Due to the strong south westerly prevailing winds the north coast is also an excellent place for windsurfing. It's adviseable to get a nice warm wetsuit as the Atlantic sea can be a little chilly! If you are in San Sebastian in July then you may get to watch some of the world Championships, dependent on the weather.

Diving

The Scuba Du dive shop is on Paseo del Muelle 23. You can hire equipment there or do open water courses.

Where can I find the….

Tourist information

The Oficina Municipal de Informacion (tel: 48 11 66) is on Calle de la Reina Regente and has a wealth of information on the city and the province of Guipuzcoa. In the summer (June to September it is open from Monday to Saturday, 8am until 8pm, otherwise its hours are Monday to Friday, 9am until 2pm and 3.30pm to 7pm.

Medical and Emergency Services

There are several hospitals in San Sebastian, including the Hostpital de Gipuzkoa (tel:45 40 00), on Alto de Zorroaga s/n. In a medical emergency you can call the Cruz Roja on 22 22 22. Th elocal police are on 091.

Banks

There are a number of banks scattered all over the city where you can change cash or travellers' cheques.

Post and Communications

The main post office can be found at Calle de Undaneta, behind the cathedral, whilst the telefonica phone centre is at Calle de San Marcial 29, which is open Monday to Saturday, from 9.30am until 11pm. The code for the post restante is 20080. The telephone code throughout San Sebastian is 943.

Airport Transfers

The city's airport is 22km out of town, near Hondarribia.